When I first grabbed a pair of climbing shoes in 2016, I had no idea how much it would change my life. From outdoor adventures to indoor sessions, climbing quickly became more than a hobby—it became a passion. Now, as a physical therapist and fellow climber, I’ve turned that passion into helping others stay strong, recover smart, and keep pushing their limits. Let’s talk about how to keep you climbing, no matter what challenges come your way.
Indoor vs. Outdoor Climbing Injuries
Whether you prefer the gym or the great outdoors, injuries are part of the climbing journey. But the types of injuries I see often depend on where you climb.
- Indoor Climbing: This is where a lot of training happens, so I tend to see more overuse injuries—especially to fingers, wrists, and shoulders. Repeating the same moves over and over, or tackling intense bouldering problems, can strain your body if you’re not careful.
- Outdoor Climbing: While overuse injuries happen outdoors too, I’ve noticed more traumatic injuries here—ankle fractures from falls or hamstring strains from unexpected slips or heel hooks. Outdoor climbing is less predictable, and that can take a toll.
The good news? Whether you climb indoors or outdoors, we can address these injuries and get you back to what you love.
Training for Your Discipline
Not all climbing is the same, and your rehab and training should reflect that. Whether you’re a boulderer or a sport climber, the way you move on the wall matters.
- Boulderers: Your climbs are short and powerful. That’s why, during rehab, I focus on building explosive strength and quick movements to mimic the demands of bouldering.
- Sport Climbers: You’re all about endurance and sustained effort. For you, I emphasize strength-building and endurance-focused exercises to prepare your body for longer climbs.
When I work with climbers, I always ask about their goals and climbing style. Are you more of an indoor boulderer or an outdoor sport climber? What’s your grade? What projects are you excited about? Knowing your climbing discipline helps me tailor your recovery plan to your needs.
Staying Connected While Recovering
I know how hard it is to step away from climbing due to an injury—it’s more than just a sport; it’s a part of who we are. That’s why I make it a priority to keep you connected to climbing during recovery.
If you have a finger injury, I’ll teach you drills to avoid using the injured finger so you can still climb without making things worse. If you’re dealing with a lower-body injury, we’ll find ways to keep your upper body engaged on the wall. The goal is to keep you moving and safe to our best ability.
Injury Prevention Tips for Climbers
Prevention is always better than recovery. Here are my top tips to keep you climbing strong:
- Warm Up Properly: Start with predictable holds like finger boards or hang boards. Climb routes well below your max grade before working up to your project.
- Stay Strong and Healthy: Incorporate climbing-specific exercises into your routine and focus on overall strength.
- Listen to Your Body: It’s tempting to push through pain, but ignoring it can lead to setbacks. Take breaks and seek help if something feels off.
Climbing teaches us to push through challenges and reach for new heights, but staying healthy is just as important as sending your next project. My goal is to help you recover, prevent injuries, and keep chasing your climbing dreams. If you need support, I’m here to help. Let’s get you back on the wall where you belong.
Schedule an appointment with Carly at the Spooner Sports Institute today!